Batik Design: The Traditions and Beauty of The Indonesian Dye Technique

The Process

The overarching, defining feature of this centuries-old craft involves the creation of intricate patterns through wax-resist dyeing. 

The process consists of hot wax (malam in Javanese), traditionally beeswax, being applied to certain areas of the fabric with a pen-like tool known as a tjanting or canting—a handle attached to a small metal cup that contains melted wax dripped onto the fabric. These can come in single or double-spouted forms, allowing for details such as dots and fine line designs to be created with more precision. Wax can also be applied with a brush or by using a stamp tool or canting tap, to add distinctive repetitive patterns or motifs. The wax is then boiled, with contrasting areas of the wax and non-waxed dyed fabric revealing the desired batik pattern. This can be repeated as many times as needed to achieve the desired aesthetic. This repetition allows for patterns to come to life, as well as multiple colours to be incorporated. Finally, the batik fabric is dried and soaked in a colour-fixing solution.

Batik techniques

The traditional batik-making is written batik or batik tulis as it is known in Java—an extremely manual and handcrafted batik technique. The stamped batik method or batik cap is another technique that is seen as less traditional, but speeds up production time because of the repetitive nature of the stamp’s ability in creating a pattern. 

Written batik (batik tulis)

Written batik, known in Javanese as batik tulis, is the hand-wax batik that was once the only technique used to create the art form. Produced using the tjanting tool to ‘write’ patterns and detail onto fabric, the process is completed on both sides of the cloth and dyed three or four times. Due to this intricate process, written batik can often take as long as a couple of months to a year to complete. This traditional technique is truly unique and handmade, making it highly exclusive and sought-after. 

Stamped batik (batik cap)

Stamped batik, known in Javanese as batik cap is a technique enabling beautiful batik patterns to be created at a faster pace. Using a stamp tool made of copper plates, a shape is formed, dipped in wax and then repeatedly stamped upon the piece of fabric to create a consistent pattern. The copper cap can be large or small, often taking the form of motifs and shapes that can be transferred onto the working batik fabric. As opposed to the longer production time of written batik, stamped batik usually takes approximately 2-3 days to produce. Due to its repetitive, patterned nature, it can make the batik art less unique when compared to written batik, but this can also give them a neater appearance, as well as the ability to craft beautiful patterns that are just as striking.

Painted batik (batik lukis)

Painted batik, known in Javanese as batik lukis, is a technique of batiking that allows for increased free-form design, utilising motifs, colours and patterns not traditionally possible with other techniques. Left up to the creation of the maker, batik painting sees a combination of different mediums, from the traditional canting, to the use of a brush, banana stalk, cotton, toothpick or other medium—the result being a delightfully unique expression of the painter’s choosing. 

Contemporary uses

In 2009, the art of Indonesian batik was recognised by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. It highlighted the ways in which the techniques, symbolism and culture of batik permeates many facets of the lives of Indonesians, from infants carried in batik slings, clothes worn in business and academic settings, as well as to celebrate marriage and pregnancy. There is even a National Batik Day on October 2nd which marks the anniversary of UNESCO’s recognition of Indonesian batik.

Indonesian batik design remains a craft that has been passed down through generations. Its recognition in UNESCO creates room for its continued exploration in modern ways. Synthetic dyes are now more widely used, making batik easier to produce, but there is also a large focus on retaining its authenticity with its handmade and high quality components. 

In modern times, particular use has focused on clothing and the dye’s application to cotton and silk. Furnishing fabrics, heavy canvas wall hangings, tablecloths and household accessories are just some contemporary applications where batik is utilised.

Bali batik

In the 1970s, a Balinese version of batik gained popularity, becoming an important aspect of the archipelago’s local textile economy. Patterns of today span natural, floral imagery, including frangipani and hibiscus flowers, as well as birds and fish. The daily lives of Balinese people and its landscapes often feature, including Balinese dancers, as well as religious or mythological creatures. 

Contemporary batik design created in Bali is not limited by traditions or ritual wearing—instead, artists are free to express themselves and interpret this age-old tradition and technique in new and innovative ways.

Batik motifs

If there’s one style of craft that is found across the entirety of Indonesia’s islands, it’s batik. Each country that practises the art form has its own unique motifs and patterns, often symbolising certain cultural influences or religion. Many traditional batik motifs are unique to each region, making them highly distinguishable.

Inspired by local traditions and the landscape, batik traditionally featured geometric designs. The most popular is known as Kawung in Javanese, which translates to palm fruit. Four intersecting ovals resemble the palm fruit and symbolise human life.

The Parang batik design features diagonal lines from high to low, resembling an ‘S’ shape. Symbolising continuity, it is one of the oldest batik motifs known to Indonesia. Translating from the Javanese word Pereng to mean slope, it’s imbued with the philosophy of ocean waves—to keep flowing forward and to never stop moving. In history, kings and leaders wore batik Parang, but in the present day, it is used throughout many forms of art, fashion and interior design.

Other traditional Indonesian batik motifs include Sido Asih, often used in traditional Javanese weddings; Sekar Jagad, symbolising the beautiful diversity of Indonesia; Mega Mendung, a cloud motif promoting calmness and patience; Sidomukti, representing happiness and goodness; Sido Luhur, symbolising the receiver of honour and happiness in life; and Pring Sedapur, symbolising unity and strength.

Whilst the traditional batik motifs are largely centred in Java, Bali holds its own motifs that are central to its batiking, inspired by the surrounding natural landscape and life of its people, including religion and culture. The most popular is the Lion Barong which relates to Bali’s culture and religion, including the gods of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu. In batik artworks, this is often depicted by the figure of a lion, tiger, eagle or dragon. Other popular motifs includes Balinese dancers; Buketan, depicting a bouquet of flowers or small plants, heavily influenced by Europe; Ulamsari Mas, portraying fish and shrimp as a symbol of wellbeing; Merak, depicting a peacock; and Pisan, portraying relief patterns of important temples.

Batik carries a beautifully rich history that originated in Indonesia on the island of Java. Its influence cannot be understated, having spanned thousands of years and traversed multiple continents, with roots of dye-resistance patterns that can be traced back to Europe, Asia, India and Africa. With significant tradition and influence, batik’s sheer beauty and ability to convey meaning is a true testament to the complexities of this age-old craft and artisanal craftsmanship that has transcended generations.